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Sweetbreads Or Brains In Brown Butter Sauce
(Ris de Veau ou Cervelles au Beurre Noir)
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| What You Need: |
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¼ cup wine vinegar or lemon juice
Freshly ground black pepper
Flour
3 tablespoons butter
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley
1½ pounds calf's sweetbreads or brains
Water
Vinegar
Salt
Lemon juice
15 tablespoons butter (almost ½ pound)
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| How To Cook: |
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1. Soak the sweetbreads or brains in several changes of cold water for 2 hours; then soak them for another hour in acidulated cold water, using one tablespoon of vinegar for each quart of water. Gently pull off as much of the outside membrane as possible without tearing the brains or sweetbreads.
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2. Trim the sweetbreads by cutting the two lobes from the tube between them with a small sharp knife; discard the tubes. Trim the brains by cutting off the white, opaque bits at the base. Place the sweetbreads or brains in an enameled saucepan with enough water to cover by 2 inches, add the salt (1 teaspoon per quart of water) and lemon juice (1 tablespoon per quart of water), and cook uncovered just below a simmer for 15 to 20 minutes. Spread the sweetbreads or brains on paper towels to dry.
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3. Clarify 12 tablespoons of the butter in a small heavy saucepan or skillet by melting it slowly, skimming off the surface foam. Spoon the clear butter on top into a clean pan and discard the milky residue. Pour the vinegar into the pan in which the butter melted and boil it briskly until it has been reduced to 1 tablespoon. Over moderate heat, brown the clarified butter. Stir in the reduced vinegar, taste and season with salt and pepper.
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4. If the sweetbreads or brains are to be served whole, add them to the brown butter sauce and, basting periodically, heat through. If they are to be sliced and sauteed, set the brown butter sauce aside. Dip the slices in flour, then shake off all but a fine dusting of flour. In a heavy 10- to 12-inch skillet or saute pan, melt the remaining 3 tablespoons of butter with the oil over moderate heat.
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5. When the foam subsides, saute the sliced sweetbreads or brains 3 or 4 minutes on each side, or until lightly browned. If all the slices don't fit into the skillet easily, saute them in two batches. Arrange the slices neatly on a heated platter. Reheat the brown butter and pour it over them. Sprinkle with chopped parsley and serve at once.
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