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1. Light a 1- to 2-inch-thick layer of briquettes in a charcoal grill equipped with a rotating spit and let the briquettes burn until white ash appears on the surface.
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2. Meanwhile, bring 2 quarts of water to a boil in a large pot. Drop in the grape leaves and immediately turn off the heat. Let the leaves soak for 1 minute, drain, then plunge them into a bowl of cold water to cool them quickly. Gently separate the leaves and spread them flat and side by side on paper towels to drain.
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3. With a large sharp knife, cut the necks off the quail. Wash the birds briefly under cold running water and dry them thoroughly with paper towels. Season the quail inside and out with the salt and pepper.
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4. Slice the grapes almost in half lengthwise and pick out the seeds. Then stuff three or four grapes into the cavity of each bird. Twist the wings behind the backs of the quails and truss them securely.
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5. Place one quail at a time in the center of a grape leaf and bring the ends of the leaf up around the bird. Drape a second grape leaf over the top of the quail and tuck the ends underneath the bird. Wrap a slice of bacon tightly around the middle of each bird.
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6. Thread the quail on the spit side by side, securing them with the sliding prongs. Fit the spit into place above the coals, and roast the birds for 30 to 40 minutes. To test for doneness, pierce a thigh with the point of a small sharp knife.
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7. The juice that trickles out should be pale yellow; if it is still tinged with pink, roast the quail for another 5 to 10 minutes. To serve, remove the spit from the grill, unscrew the prongs and slide the quail off the spit onto a heated platter.
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NOTE: Mourning doves may be substituted for the quail.
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