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1. In a heavy 12-inch skillet, melt the butter over moderate heat. When the foam begins to subside, add the shallots (or scallions) and, stirring frequently, cook for about 5 minutes, or until they are soft and transparent but not brown.
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2. Watch carefully for any sign of burning and regulate the heat accordingly. Stir in the parsley, chervil, thyme and tarragon, then pour in the wine and mix well. Remove the skillet from the heat.
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3. Pat the trout fillets completely dry with paper towels and sprinkle them on both sides with the salt and pepper. Arrange them on top of the herbs in the skillet in one layer, overlapping them slightly if necessary.
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4. Cut a circle of for 12 or 13 inches in diameter and press it gently but firmly over the fish.
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5. Return the skillet to moderate heat and simmer the trout for about 5 minutes, or until the flesh flakes easily when prodded gently with a fork.
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6. With a slotted spatula, transfer the fillets to a heated platter and drape fresh foil over it to keep the fish warm while you prepare the sauce.
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7. Stirring constantly with a wire whisk or large spoon, bring the liquid remaining in the skillet to a boil over high heat and cook briskly until it is reduced to a thin film that barely covers the bottom of the pan.
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8. Reduce the heat to moderate and, still stirring, pour in the cream and any liquid that has accumulated around the fish.
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9. Continue to boil the sauce, stirring occasionally, until it is thick enough tocoat the whisk heavily.
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10. This may take from 5 to 10 minutes. Taste for seasoning, then pour the sauce over the trout, masking them completely.
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11. Serve at once. Traditionally, the trout are accompanied by a separatebowl of freshly boiled new potatoes.
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