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1. In a small shallow bowl, sprinkle the yeast and sugar over the lukewarm milk. Let the mixture stand for 2 or 3 minutes, then stir it to dissolve the yeast completely. Set the bowl in a warm, draft-free place, such as an unlighted oven, for 5 to 8 minutes, or until the yeast bubbles up and the mixture almost doubles in volume.
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2. Sift 3½ cups of the flour, the salt, allspice and cinnamon into a deep mixing bowl. Make a well in the center and pour in the yeast mixture and the remaining cup of milk. Drop in the eggs and beat with a large spoon until the flour is absorbed.
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3. Beat in 3 tablespoons of the softened butter cut into bits, then add up to 1 cup more flour, a few tablespoons at a time, using only as much as necessary to make a dough that can be gathered into a soft ball.
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4. When the dough becomes too stiff to stir easily, work in the additional flour with your fingers.
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5. On a lightly floured surface, knead the dough by folding it end to end, then pressing it down and pushing it forward several times with the heel of your hand. Sprinkle the dough with a little extra flour when necessary to prevent it from sticking to the board. Repeat for about 10 minutes, or until the dough is became smooth and elastic.
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6. Shape the dough into a ball and place it in a large, lightly buttered bowl. Dust the top of the ball with a little flour, drape a kitchen towel over the bowl, and set in a warm, draft-free spot for 45 minutes to an hour, until the dough doubles in bulk.
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7. With a pastry brush, coat a large baking sheet with the remaining tablespoon of softened butter. Punch the dough down with a single blow of your fist, then transfer it to a lightly floured board and knead the raisins into it. Pull off a small handful of the dough and set it aside.
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8. For each bun, roll a small piece of the dough between your palms into a ball about 1½ inch in diameter. Arrange the balls about 2 inches apart on the baking sheet and set them aside to rise in the warm, draft-free place for about 15 to 20 minutes, or until they double in volume. Meanwhile preheat the oven to 450°F.
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9. With a small knife, cut a cross 1/3 inch deep on the top of each bun. Shape the reserved handful of dough into one or two long ropes about ¼ inch in diameter and cut it into strips 1½ inches long. Press the strips into the crosses on the top of the buns.
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10. Brush the buns lightly with the egg-and-cream mixture, and bake in the middle of the oven for about 15 minutes, or until the tops are a deep golden brown. Transfer the buns to a cake rack and let them cool for a few minutes before separating them.
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NOTE:
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If you prefer, you may make the cross on top of the buns with thin strips of candied orange peel instead of the strips of dough.
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