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1. With a small sharp knife, remove the skin from two of the lemons without cutting into the bitter white pith beneath it. Cut the peel into strips about 1/8 inch wide, drop the strips into enough boiling water to cover them completely and boil briskly for 2 minutes.
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2. With a slotted spoon, transfer the strips of lemon peel to paper towels to drain.Cut the remaining lemon crosswise into four or six rounds and set aside.
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3. Wash the quail under cold running water and pat them dry with paper towels. Season them inside and out with salt and pepper, twist the wings behind the backs and truss the birds securely. Roll one at a time in the flour to coat it evenly and vigorously shake off the excess flour.
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4. In a heavy casserole large enough to hold the quail in one layer, melt the butter with the oil over moderate heat. When the foam begins to subside, brown the birds in the hot fat, two or three at a time.
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5. Turn them frequently with tongs and regulate the heat so that they color richly and evenly without burning. As they brown, transfer them to a plate.
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6. Add the onions to the fat remaining in the casserole and cook for about 5 minutes, stirring frequently until they are soft and translucent but not brown.
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7. Pour in the wine and water, and bring to a boil, meanwhile scraping in the brown particles that cling to the bottom and sides of the pan. Return the quail and the liquid that has accumulated around them to the casserole, cover tightly and simmer over low heat for 30 to 40 minutes.
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8. To test for doneness, pierce a thigh with the point of a small sharp knife. The juice that trickles out should be pale yellow; if it is still tinged with pink, braise the quail for another 5 to 10 minutes. Transfer the birds to a heated platter and drape them loosely with foil to keep them warm while you prepare the sauce.
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9. Strain the braising liquid through a fine sieve set over a small heavy saucepan, pressing down hard on the onions with the back of a spoon to extract all their juices before discar,ding the pulp.
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10. Add the cream and, stirring frequently, cook the sauce over moderate heat until it thickens slightly and is reduced to about 1 cup. Stir in the reserved strips of lemon peel and taste for seasoning.
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11. Pour the sauce over the quail, then sprinkle the parsley in a ring around the outside edge of each lemon slice. Arrange the slices attractively on the platter and serve the quail at once.
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NOTE: Where doves are available, they may be substituted for quail.
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