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PREPARE AHEAD:
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1. In a small bowl, combine the pork, soy sauce, cornstarch, wine, salt and beaten egg, and mix them thoroughly together.
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2. Beat the 4 eggs with a fork or whisk just enough to combine them.
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3. Have the pork mixture, beaten eggs and oil within easy reach.
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TO COOK:
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1. Set a 12-inch wok or 8-inch skillet over moderate heat for about 30 seconds. With a pastry brush or paper towel, brush the bottom of the pan with 1 teaspoon of oil.
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2. Pour in half the beaten eggs. Lower the heat at once and-working quickly but carefully-tip the pan from side to side until a thin, round pancake about 8 inches in diameter forms.
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3. Immediately pour any uncooked egg on the surface of the pancake back into the bowl. As soon as the pancake is firm enough to handle-no more than 30 seconds-lift it up with your fingers or a spatula and transfer it to a plate.
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4. In similar fashion, make another pancake, transferring it to a second plate when it is done. Reserve any uncooked egg. Spread half of the pork filling over each pancake.
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5. Roll them tightly, jelly-roll fashion, and seal the edges with a little reserved uncooked egg. Press the edges together firmly to make them adhere.
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6. Pour boiling water into the steamer to come within an inch of the rack (or use a steamer substitute. Lay the pancakes on a heatproof platter ½ inch smaller than the diameter of the pot. Set this on the rack; cover the pot.
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7. Keeping the water at a slow boil, steam the pancakes for 20 minutes. Remove the platter from the steamer. Cut the rolls diagonally into ½-inch slices and serve hot. Or refrigerate the whole rolls, and serve them cold. (Peas may be used as garnish, but are not classic).
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