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1. Sprinkle the yeast and the pinch of sugar into the lukewarm water. Be absolutely sure that the water is lukewarm (110° to 115°) - neither too hot nor too cool to the touch. (If the water is too hot it will kill the yeast; if it is too cold, it will not activate the yeast.)
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2. Let the mixture stand for 2 to 3 minutes, then stir it to dissolve the yeast completely. Set in a warm, draft-free place-such as an unlighted oven-for 2 or 3 minutes, or until the yeast has begun to bubble and has almost doubled in volume.
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3. In a mixing bowl, combine the yeast solution, the milk, vanilla extract, lemon peel, sugar and salt, then stir in the egg yolks, 1 at a time. Beat in the flour ½ cup at a time, then beat the soft butter into the dough a tablespoon at a time.
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4. Remove the dough to a floured surface and knead it by pulling the dough into an oblong shape, folding it end to end, then pressing it down and pushing it forward several times with the heels of your hands.
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5. Turn the dough slightly toward you and repeat the process, pulling, folding, pressing and pushing. Continue to knead, sprinkling more flour on the dough and the working surface if either becomes sticky.
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6. The dough should be smooth and elastic in about 10 minutes. Put it into a large, lightly buttered bowl, dust the top of the dough lightly with flour and cover the bowl loosely with a kitchen towel.
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7. Let the dough rise in a warm, draft-free area (the unlighted oven would be ideal) for 35 to 45 minutes; it should then have doubled in size.
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ALMOND NUT FILLING:
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1. Cream the butter and sugar by beating them together with a wooden spoon against the side of a mixing bowl or by using an electric mixer.
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2. Beat in the egg yolk, then gradually stir in the grated almonds, orange peel, raisins and vanilla extract. Continue to stir until the ingredients are thoroughly blended. Set the filling aside.
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3. Turn the dough out on a floured surface, knead it again for a minute, then pat it into a rectangular shape with your hands. Roll it into a rectangle about 9 inches wide and 13 inches long; it should then be about ¼ inch thick. With a pastry brush or paper towel lightly butter an 8-by-15-inch baking sheet.
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4. With a metal spatula, spread the poppy seed or almond nut filling over the rectangle of dough in a layer about 1/8 inch thick, leaving an unspread border of ¾ inch on each side of the rectangle.
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5. Starting with a 13-inch side, roll the dough up like a long jelly roll. (Do not close the ends.) With the aid of a metal spatula if necessary, gently maneuver the roll, seam side down, onto the baking sheet. Brush the top and sides of the roulade with the egg-milk mixture.
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6. Let it rise in a warm, draft-free spot for 20 minutes, then brush it again with the mixture. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 350°. Bake the roll in the middle of the oven for 45 minutes, or until it is a light golden brown.
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7. The rich filling may cause the pastry to crack a little, but this will in no way impair it. Cool the roulade to room temperature on a cake rack before slicing and serving.
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