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1. Preheat the oven to 350°. Season both sides of the steak with 1 teaspoon of the salt and a few grindings of pepper. Then roll the steak with the grain in jelly-roll fashion, and tie it at both ends and in the middle with kitchen cord.
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2. In a heavy 3- to 4-quart flameproof casserole, heat 2 tablespoons of the oil over high heat until a light haze forms above it. Add the rolled steak and brown it on all sides.
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3. Regulate the heat so that the steak browns quickly without burning. Transfer the steak to a plate and, to the fat remaining in the casserole, add ½ cup of the onions, the celery and garlic.
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4. Cook over moderate heat, stirring frequently, for 5 minutes, or until the vegetables are soft but not brown. Return the steak and any juice on the plate to the casserole, add the water and bring to a boil over high heat.
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5. Cover the casserole, place it in the oven and braise the steak for 2 hours, or until it shows no resistance when pierced with the tip of a knife. Remove from the oven and increase the heat to 400°.
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6. In a 6- to 8-inch skillet, heat the remaining tablespoon of oil over moderate heat and add the remaining ½ cup of onions. Stir in the cumin and ½ teaspoon of salt and cook for 3 minutes.
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7. Spread the onions on top of the steak. Return the casserole to the oven and bake, uncovered, for 15 minutes, or until the onions are lightly browned.
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8. Slice the steak into ¼-inch rounds and arrange them attractively on a heated platter. Pour the pan juices over them and serve immediately. The steak is often accompanied by papas chorreadas.
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